Zum Inhalt

Willkommen zur 3MS Dokumentations

"3MS" ist eine Abkürzung für "MMMS", was für Modular Multi Material System steht

Konfigurations Generator

Discord Shield

Das 3MS ist ein simpler, kompakter, modularer, verlässlicher und den Geldbeutel schonender, automatisierter Filamentwechsler.

Loslegen

Warum gerade das 3MS?

Warum sollte ich das 3MS verwenden, wo es doch viele andere automatisierte Filamentwechsler gibt?

Hier sind ein paar Argumente dafür:

  • Einfaches Design: Minimale mechanische Komplexität für mehr Verlässlichkeit
  • Geringe Kosten: Ein 3MS mit 4 Filament-Modulen kann für ~150$ USD gebaut werden
  • Einfache Beschaffung: Alle Teile für das 3MS können auf Amazon erworben werden
  • Verständliche Dokumentation: "Schritt-für-Schritt"-Anleitungen helfen beim reibungslosen Einrichten und Verwenden
  • Skalierbar: Leicht für beliebig viele Filamente erweiterbar

Voraussetzungen

Um das 3MS verwenden zu können muss dein bisheriges Setup die folgenden Voraussetzungen erfüllen:

  • Du verwendest die Klipper Firmware
  • Du hast SSH (PuTTY) Zugriff (99,9% aller Klipper-Installationen erfüllen das, falls du es noch nicht verwendest solltest du das dringend ändern)
  • Du hast einen freien USB-Port
  • Der Extruder deines Druckers hat einen Anschluss um das Filament durch einen PTFE/Teflon-Schlauch einzuführen
  • Du hast einen Filament-Sensor direkt vor dem Extruder deines Druckers

Empfehlungen

Es wird dringend empfohlen einen Filament-Cutter zu deinem Drucker hinzuzufügen um sich das Einstellen des Tip Formings zu sparen

Loslegen

Um mit dem 3MS loszulegen schau dir die Master Instructions an.

Loslegen

Druckergebnisse

Model: "Sheep" von Cipis

Model: "Monolith Cryptic Calendar" von Sevro

Model: Voron Cube (gebundlet mit dem OrcaSlicer), von mir angemalt im OrcaSlicer

in 50% der Größe gedruckt

Model: "T-rex" von Cipis

Model: "Striped lizard with pupils" von EngMike

West3D Video Serie

Danke an Allen Rowand von West3D für diese andauernde Serie über das 3MS.

Vergleich verschiedener, automatisierter Filamentwechsler

Du bist dir unsicher ob du das 3MS verwenden willst? Schau dir doch diesen Vergleich verschiedener, verbreiteter Multimaterial-Systeme an.

  • 3MS Modular Multimaterial System für Klipper 3D-Drucker

    Pro:

    Einfaches Design

    Verlässlichkeit

    Dokumentation

    Modulares Design

    Aktive Community

    Preis (~$150)

    Kontra:

    Kompatibilität (erfordert Klipper)

  • Box Turtle MMU Automatisierter Filamentwechsler

    Pro:

    Verlässlichkeit

    Aktive Community

    Dokumentation

    Kontra:

    Kompatibilität (erfordert Klipper)

    Komplexität

    Preis ($300)

  • ERCF v2 Ein erweiterbares MMU für Klipper-basierte 3D-Drucker

    Pro:

    Verlässlichkeit

    Modulares Design

    Aktive Community

    Dokumentation

    Kontra:

    Kompatibilität (erfordert Klipper)

    Komplexität

  • TradRack von Annex Engineering

    Pro:

    Verlässlichkeit

    Modulares Design

    Aktive Community

    Dokumentation

    Kontra:

    Kompatibilität (erfordert Klipper)

    Komplexität

  • 3DChameleon MK4 Automatic Color Changer

    Pro:

    Kompatibilität

    keine Custom Firmware

    Preis ($200)

    Kontra:

    Verlässlichkeit

    Dokumentation

  • SMuFF "Smart Multi Filament Feeder"

    Pro:

    Verlässlichkeit

    Modulares Design

    Dokumentation

    Kontra:

    Komplexität

  • Prusa MMU3 Multi Material Upgrade

    Pro:

    Verlässlichkeit

    Support

    Dokumentation

    Kontra:

    Kompatibilität

    Preis ($300)

  • CoPrint KCM Multi-Color Upgrade Kit für Klipper 3D-Drucker

    Pro:

    Einfaches Design

    Modulares Design

    Dokumentation

    Kontra:

    Komplexität (erfordert ChromaHead)

    Preis (~$300)

Master Instructions

Wegen der Modularität des 3MS gibt es viele mögliche Arten es aufzubauen. Dieser Guide versucht alle unterstützen Wege das 3MS aufzubauen abzudecken.

Abschnitte

Einrichten

Stückliste

Controller-Auswahl

Such dir zuerst das Kontrollboard aus, das du für dein 3MS verwenden willst. Du kannst aus den Folgenden wählen.

Anzahl der Filament-Einheiten

Entscheide wie viele Filament-Einheiten du willst. Jede Filament-Einheit erlaubt es dir mit einem weiteren Filament zu drucken. 2 Filament-Einheiten sind das Minimum. Du kannst Filament-Einheiten auch nach dem Aufbau hinzufügen oder entfernen, aber die Stückliste und die Config werden sich abhängig von der Anzahl an Filament-Einheiten verändern.

Kontrollboard Stückliste

Wähle die zu deinem Controller passende Stückliste aus:

Empfohlen: BTT SKR Pico

Andere Kontrollboards

BTT SKR Mini E3 V2

BTT MMB

Mellow Fly D7

BTT Octopus (main MCU)

Zonestar ZM384 (main MCU)

Mini RAMBo

Geetech A30T

Filament-Einheiten Stückliste

Pro Filament-Einheit benötigst du folgendes:

Name Menge Preis Link Anmerkungen
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon Du kannst auch die flacheren "pancake"-Stepper verwenden, aber hast dadurch weniger Drehmoment
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternativ kannst du auch diesen Dual-drive MK8 basierten Extruder verwenden
PTFE Schlauch 1 $8.99 Amazon Du wirst diesen Schlauch nicht für jede Filament-Einheit benötigen, weil der Schlauch in der Regel zu lang für nur eine Einheit ist

Kontrollboards

Kontrollboards

Folge diesem Guide um festzulegen welches Kontrollboard du in deinem 3MS verwenden kannst.

Optionen

Das 3MS funktioniert auf vielen verschiedenen Kontrollboards.

Info

Falls dein Drucker-Mainboard unbenutzte Stepper-Ports hat, kannst du diese verwenden um die Stepper des 3MS zu steuern. Du kannst einen Issue auf Github (es gibt eine Vorlage) erstellen um eine Config für dein spezifisches Setup zu erhalten. Alle controller mit "(main MCU)" nutzen solche freien Stepper-Ports.

Wähle einen der folgenden, unterstützten Controller (eine angekreuzte Box bedeutet, dass er vollständig getested ist, eine leere Box bedeutet, dass Tester gesucht werden):

BTT SKR Pico

Max filament units: 4

MCU Name: mmu

BOM

Name Price Quantity Link Notes
SKR Pico $26.58 1 BIQU
Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters
24V PSU $12.98 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit

Wiring

Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:

Filament Unit # Motor Port
0 X
1 Y
2 Z1 or Z2
3 E

Now, grab your 24V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)

  1. Plug the red wire into the positive terminal of the screw terminals

  2. Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals

    Danger

    These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the SKR board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.

  3. Following this image, locate the POWER input

  4. Route the two wires inside closest to the POWER input
  5. Using the markings on the board, plug the red wire into the positive terminal on the SKR
  6. Using the markings on the board, plug the black wire into the negative terminal on the SKR

  7. Verify all connections

    Warning

    If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your SKR, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.

  8. Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire

If the SKR lights up, you wired it correctly!

Finally, plug the SKR into your Klipper host with the blue cable that came with it.

Archiv

BTT MMB V1

Max filament units: 4

MCU Name: mmu

BOM

Name Price Quantity Link Notes
BTT MMB $34.99 1 BTT
Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters
12V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit

Wiring

Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:

Filament Unit # Motor Port
0 M1
1 M2
2 M3
3 M4

Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)

  1. Plug the red wire into the positive terminal of the screw terminals

  2. Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals

    Danger

    These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the MMB board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.

  3. Following this image, locate the HVIN and GND inputs (top left)

  4. Route the two wires inside closest to the HVIN and GND inputs

  5. Using the markings on the board, plug the red wire into the HVIN terminal on the MMB
  6. Using the markings on the board, plug the black wire into the GND terminal on the MMB

  7. Plug in the VUSB jumper

  8. Verify all connections

    Warning

    If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your MMB, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.

  9. Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire

Plug the MMB into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.

If the MMB lights up, you wired it correctly!

BTT SKR Mini E3 V2

Max filament units: 4

MCU Name: 3ms

BOM

Name Price Quantity Link Notes
SKR Mini E3 V2 $34.99 1 Amazon
Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters
12V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit

Wiring

Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:

Filament Unit # Motor Port
0 XM
1 YM
2 ZAM or ZBM
3 E0M

Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)

  1. Plug the red wire into the positive terminal of the screw terminals

  2. Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals

    Danger

    These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the SKR board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.

  3. Following this image, choose either the DCIN or POWER input

  4. Route the two wires inside closest to your chosen input
  5. Using the markings on the board, plug the red wire into the positive terminal on the SKR
  6. Using the markings on the board, plug the black wire into the negative terminal on the SKR

  7. Verify all connections

    Warning

    If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your SKR, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.

  8. Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire

If the SKR lights up, you wired it correctly!

Finally, plug the SKR into your Klipper host with the blue cable that came with it.

BTT Octopus (main MCU)

Warning

This configuration may not work with the BTT Octopus Pro.

Max filament units: 4

MCU Name: main

main MCU

This configuration is a main MCU configuration, meaning that your printer should already be running off a BTT Octopus and you don't need to purchase one.

BOM

Per filament unit:

1x TMC2209 ($7 each)

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit

Wiring

Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:

Filament Unit # Motor Port
0 MOTOR7
1 MOTOR6
2 MOTOR5
3 MOTOR4

Einsy RAMBo (main MCU) with SKR Mini E3 V2

Danger

This guide is an expert guide only

Info

This modification is designed for the Prusa MK3/S/S+, and depends on this Klipper configuration.

Why?

When printing fast, the TMC2130's on the Einsy RAMBo can get quite loud. The TMC2209's on the SKR Mini are much quieter and support denser microstepping.

BOM

Name Price Quantity Link Notes
PSU -> Einsy Cable $7.99 1 PartsBuilt3D
Stepperonline NEMA17 $9.99 each Amazon 2 Replaces current XY motors

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit

Wiring

First, unplug the 3MS steppers from the SKR Mini, and the XY steppers from the Einsy RAMBo. The motors will need to be switched due to different connector types between boards.

This table outlines the major wiring of this modification.

Einsy RAMBo SKR Mini E3 V2 Motor
PSU+ POWER+
PSU- POWER-
XM 3ms0
YM 3ms1
XM X
YM Y

Configuration

In your printer.cfg, comment out these lines:

printer.cfg
1
2
#[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/steppers.cfg]
#[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/tmc2130.cfg]

Next, copy the contents of 3ms/controllers/einsy_rambo_with_skr_mini/xy-motors.cfg and ze-motors.cfg to klipper-prusa-mk3s/skr/xy.cfg, and klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/ze.cfg, respectively.

Add the following new lines:

printer.cfg
1
2
[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/skr/xy.cfg]
[include klipper-prusa-mk3s/mk3s/ze.cfg]

Restart Klipper.

Zonestar ZM384 (main MCU)

Max filament units: 3

MCU Name: main

main MCU

This configuration is a main MCU configuration, meaning that your printer should already be running off a ZM384 and you don't need to purchase one.

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit
Filament Unit # Motor Port
0 E0
1 E1
2 E2
3 E3

Mini RAMBo

Max filament units: 4

MCU Name: 3ms

BOM

Name Price Quantity Link Notes
Mini RAMBo 1
Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters
12V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit

Wiring

Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:

Filament Unit # Motor Port
0 XM
1 YM
2 ZAM or ZBM
3 E0M

Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)

  1. Plug the red wire into the positive terminal of the screw terminals

  2. Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals

    Danger

    These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the RAMBo board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.

  3. Route the two wires inside closest to your chosen input

  4. Using the markings on the board, plug the red wire into the positive terminal on the RAMBo
  5. Using the markings on the board, plug the black wire into the negative terminal on the RAMBo

  6. Verify all connections

    Warning

    If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your RAMBo, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.

  7. Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire

If the RAMBo lights up, you wired it correctly!

Finally, plug the RAMBo into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.

Mellow Fly D7

Max filament units: 7

MCU Name: 3ms

BOM

Name Price Quantity Link Notes
Mellow Fly D7 1
Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters
12V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit

Wiring

Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:

Filament Unit # Motor Port
0 X
1 Y
2 Z
3 Z1
4 Z2
5 E0

Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)

  1. Plug the red wire into the positive terminal of the screw terminals

  2. Plug the black wire into the negative terminal of the screw terminals

    Danger

    These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the board board, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.

  3. Using the markings on the board, plug the red wire into the positive terminal on the board

  4. Using the markings on the board, plug the black wire into the negative terminal on the board

  5. Verify all connections

    Warning

    If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your board, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.

  6. Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire

If the board lights up, you wired it correctly!

Finally, plug the board into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.

Geetech A30T

Contributed by @ImChrono

Max filament units: 7

MCU Name: 3ms

BOM

Name Price Quantity Link Notes
Geetech A30T $34.99 1 Geetech
Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon These wires are only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters
24V PSU $7.39 1 Amazon This PSU is only sufficient to run steppers, not heaters

For each filament unit, purchase the following:

Name Quantity Price Link Notes
NEMA17 Stepper Motor 1 $9.99 Amazon You can use a pancake stepper if you want, but it will have less torque
MK8 Metal Extruder 1 $9.99 Amazon Alternatively, you can use this Dual-drive MK8 based extruder
PTFE Tubing 1 $8.99 Amazon You likely won't need this for every unit, as this is usually too long for only one unit

Firmware

To flash Klipper firmware to the A30T, run the following command and see the following screenshot:

1
2
cd ~/klipper
make menuconfig

Next, connect the BOOT0 jumper on the A30T and run:

1
stm32flash -i ',,,,,' -v -w out/klipper.bin -g 0 /dev/serial/by-id/<your-mcu-id-here>

Wiring

Route the wires from the NEMA17's to the controller board. Follow this table to determine which port to plug the motors into:

Filament Unit # Motor Port
0 X
1 Y
2 Z0
3 Z1
4 E1
5 E2
6 E3

Now, grab your 12V PSU and two M-M duponts, one red and one black (M-M means that there is metal coming out of both ends of the cable). Plug the PSU into the wall, but don't plug the screw terminals into the PSU (the screw terminals have green)

  1. Plug two red wires into the positive terminal of the screw terminals

  2. Plug two black wires into the negative terminal of the screw terminals

    Danger

    These dupont cables are too thin to run much more than the stepper motors. If you run a heater or other power-intensive device off of the motherboard, the duponts and/or PSU can melt/catch fire. To reduce the risk of this, you can double up on the duponts or get thicker wires.

  3. Route the four wires inside closest to your chosen input

  4. Using the markings on the board, plug the two red wires into the positive terminal on the motherboard
  5. Using the markings on the board, plug the two black wires into the negative terminal on the motherboard

  6. Verify all connections

    Warning

    If the wires are plugged into the wrong place, or swapped polarities, your motherboard, Stepper motors, and/or PSU can be badly damaged.

  7. Plug the PSU screw terminals into the PSU wire

If the motherboard lights up, you wired it correctly!

Finally, plug the motherboard into your Klipper host with the cable that came with it.

UART Conversion

⚠️ Attention: Proceed with Caution! ⚠️

This modification involves delicate hardware changes that require precision and attention to detail. Mistakes in wiring or soldering can permanently damage your GTM32_103_V1 board.

  • Double-check connections before applying power.
  • Use proper tools and follow best practices for soldering.
  • If you are not confident in your skills, seek assistance from an experienced individual or professional.

You proceed at your own risk.

Overview

This guide details the process of modifying the GTM32_103_V1 3D printer controller board to enable UART capabilities. The GTM32_103_V1 board features 7 TMC2208 drivers operating in standalone mode by default. This modification involves removing the SD card slot and repurposing its pinouts for UART communication.

Features of the Modification

  • UART Capability: Enables communication with TMC2208 drivers via UART repurposing the SDCard slot

Hardware Changes

Components Modified

  • SD Card Slot: Removed entirely to free up pinouts for UART.
  • Repurposed Pins: SD card slot pins are reassigned as per the following table:
TCM2208 Driver SD Card Pin STM32 Pin
Motor0 9 PC7
Motor1 8 PC9
Motor2 7 PC8
Motor3 5 PC12
Motor4 3 PD2
Motor5 2 PC11
Motor6 1 PC10

Procedure

  1. Remove Pull down resistor from each driver:
  2. Desolder the SMD 1kΩ resistor carefully to avoid damaging the surrounding components.
TMCDriver PCB Code
Motor0 R53
Motor1 R57
Motor2 R62
Motor3 R120
Motor4 R71
Motor5 R95
Motor6 R105
  1. Remove the SD Card Slot:
  2. Desolder the SD card slot carefully to avoid damaging the surrounding components.
  3. Repurpose the Pinouts:
  4. Rewire the SD card pins according to the table above.
  5. Connect each pin to its corresponding UART connection for the TMC2208 drivers.

Testing and Validation

After completing the hardware changes: 1. Connect the board to your 3D printer and power it on. 2. Use your firmware to verify UART communication with each TMC2208 driver. 3. Check for successful responses from the drivers using a terminal or debugging tool.

Photos

Add your photos here to demonstrate the modification process and results: - Close-up of the TMC driver WIN_20241111_22_06_27_Pro

-Close-up of the TMC driver with resistor removed (solder the uart pint to the red signed pin) WIN_20241111_22_15_44_Pro

  • Close-up of the SD card: WIN_20241111_22_05_02_Pro

  • Rewired pins with labels. WIN_20241116_22_14_33_Pro

UART Configuration

When configuring this board with Happy Hare firmware, be sure to use UART-mmu.cfg and UART-mmu_hardware.cfg (renaming to mmu.cfg and mmu_hardware.cfg respectively).

Zusammenbauen

Folge diesem Guide um dein 3MS zusammenzubauen.

3d gedruckte Teile

Gehäuse

Andere Gehäuse

Y-Splitter

Filament-Einheiten zusammenbauen

  1. Falls du irgendwelche besonderen Befestigungen nutzt, platziere sie jetzt auf deinem NEMA17 Motor.
  2. Baue die MK8 Extruder gemäß der mitgeleiferten Anleitung auf
  3. Für alle anderen Einheiten wiederholen

Verdrahtung

Hinweis für bestimmte Drucker

Falls Klipper auf deinem Drucker intern läuft (anstatt auf einem externen Computer wie einem Raspberry Pi) musst du den Controller, falls es einen gibt, für das 3MS an einem USB-Port des Druckers anschließen.

Folge einem der folgenden, controllerspezifischen Guides:

Empfohlen: BTT MMB

Andere Controller

SKR Mini E3 V2

SKR Pico

Mellow Fly D7

BTT Octopus (main MCU)

Einsy RAMBo (main MCU) with SKR Mini E3 V2

Zonestar ZM384 (main MCU)

Mini RAMBo

Geetech A30T

Konfiguration

Nach dem Installieren der Happy Hare Firmware musst du ein paar Einstellungen vornehmen, bevor du mit mehreren Materialien drucken kannst.

Filament Sensoren

Um das 3MS nutzen zu können brauchst du einen Filament Sensor. Angenommen du hast bereits einen eingebaut, kannst du ihn in mmu_hardware.cfg konfigurieren.

Du findest ihn im [mmu_sensors]-Abschnitt kurz vor dem Ende der mmu_hardware.cfg.

Extruder/Werkzeugkopf Sensoren

Um einen Extruder-Eintrittssensor (ein Sensor direkt vor deinem Extruder) zu konfigurieren, setze deinen extruder_switch_pin:

Du kennst weißt deinen Sensor Pin nicht?

Falls du deinen Sensor Pin nicht kennst und er schon in Klipper eingerichtet ist, dann kannst du ihn in deiner Sensor Konfiguration (normalerweise als filament_switch_sensor) finden und dir den sensor_pin notieren.

mmu_hardware.cfg
1
2
3
[mmu_sensors]
...
extruder_switch_pin: <IRGENDEIN PIN>

Um einen Werkzeugkopfsensor (ein Sensor direkt nach deinem Extruder) zu konfigurieren, setze deinen toolhead_switch_pin auf die gleiche Weise wie den extruder_switch_pin.

Gemeinsamer Gate Sensor

Vom der Düse aufwärts gesehen, ist der nächste mögliche Sensor ein gemeinsamer Gate Sensor. Der sitzt direkt hinter dem Y-Sülitter (vom 3MS aus gesehen).

Falls du einen Gate Sensor verwendest setze gate_switch_pin:

mmu_hardware.cfg
1
2
3
[mmu_sensors]
...
gate_switch_pin: <IRGENDEIN PIN>

Pre/Post Gate Sensors (Optional)

Falls du einen Filament-Sensor vor oder nach jeder deiner 3MS Filament-Einheiten hast, konfiguriere einen pre_ oder post_gate Sensor.

Pre-Gate

Pre-Gate Sensoren sitzen vor jeder deiner Filament-Einheiten. Konfiguriere sie wie folgt:

mmu_hardware.cfg
1
2
3
4
5
[mmu_sensors]
pre_gate_switch_pin_0: <IRGENDEIN PIN>
pre_gate_switch_pin_1: <IRGENDEIN PIN>
pre_gate_switch_pin_2: <IRGENDEIN PIN>
pre_gate_switch_pin_3: <IRGENDEIN PIN>

Post-Gate

Post-Gate Sensoren sitzen hinter jeder deiner Filament-Einheiten. Konfiguriere sie wie folgt:

mmu_hardware.cfg
1
2
3
4
5
6
[mmu_sensors]
...
post_gate_switch_pin_0: <IRGENDEIN PIN>
post_gate_switch_pin_1: <IRGENDEIN PIN>
post_gate_switch_pin_2: <IRGENDEIN PIN>
post_gate_switch_pin_3: <IRGENDEIN PIN>

Existing Sensors

Bevor du weitermachst, stelle sicher, dass all deine existierenden filament_switch_sensor und filament_motion_sensor Abschnitte auskommentiert oder gelöscht sind. Sie aktiv zu lassen würde später zu Problemen führen.

Entfernungen

In der Happy Hare Firmware gibt es viele wichtige Entfernungen zu konfigurieren. Alle Entfernungs-Parameter sind in mmu_parameters.cfg zu finden.

Endstop Homen

Wennn du die Filamentposition homen willst, hast du drei Optionen für den zu verwendenden Sensor:

  • mmu_gate Verwende den gemeinsamen Gate Sensor nach dem Y-Splitter.
  • mmu_gear verwende die jeweiligen Post-Gate-Sensoren.
  • extruder Verwende den Extruder-Eingangssensor.

Wähle eine dieser Optionen aus und setze sie als gate_homing_endstop, in der mmu_parameters.cfg.

Homing Entfernung

Als nächstes konfigurierst du die maximale Strecke die Happy Hare Filament zum Homing Sensor schieben soll, bevor er "aufgibt" und die Spule als "leer" meldet. Diese Länge sollte gewöhnlich ca 150% der Distanz von der Filament-Parkposition zum Filament-Sensor entsprechen.

Anmerkung

Falls du Post-Gear Endstops (mmu_gear) verwendest, wird der gate_preload_homing_max Parameter verwendet.

Dieser Parameter heißt gate_homing_max.

Parkposition

Das ist die Position an der dein Filament warten soll, wenn es nicht verwendet wird (gemessen vom Gate-Endstop). Sie sollte ungefähr 1-2cm oberhalpt deines Y-splitters liegen.

Dieser Parameter heißt gate_parking_distance.

Ausgabeentfernung

Abschließend, falls du Filament in einer Filament-Einheit mit einem anderen Filament austauschen willst, editiere gate_final_eject_distance. Sie sollte der Entfernung von deiner Parkposition zur Filament-Einheit entsprechen, plus einer kleinen Strecke.

Geschwindigkeiten

Es gibt viele verschiedene Geschwindigkeiten, die du in der Happy Hare Firmware konfigurieren kannst.

Du findest sie im "speeds"-Abschnitt der mmu_parameters.cfg (nahe des Anfangs).

Homing Geschwindigkeit

"Homing" ist wenn Happy Hare Filament zu deinem oben ausgewählten Filament-Endstop schiebt, um sicherzustellen, dass Filament vorhanden ist. Du kannst die verwendete Geschwindigkeit anpassen, indem du den gear_homing_speed Parameter anpasst.

"First Load"-Geschwindigkeiten

Happy Hare erlaubt dir das erste Laden eines Filaments langsamer zu ausführen zu lassen um zusätzlichen Wiederstand durch die Spule auszugleichen. Um diese Geschwindigkeit anzupassen, editiere gear_from_spool_speed.

Be- und Entladegeschwindikeiten

Um deine Be- und Entladegeschwindikeiten während eines Werkzeugwechsels anzupassen, editiere den gear_from_buffer_speed Parameter.

Calibration

Follow this guide to calibrate your 3MS.

Original Documentation

This guide is a simplified version of the official Happy Hare documentation. I highly recommend you read it as it contains useful information and goes more in detail if you are having trouble with the calibrations.

Verify Filament Sensors

Before calibrating, it is important to ensure that your filament sensors are working properly.

Run in your Klipper console:

1
QUERY_ENDSTOPS

and verify the output. For each endstop, open means no filament detected, and TRIGGERED means filament present. Re-run the command several times, inserting/removing filament to each of the sensors, to verify that each filament sensor properly detects filament.

Gear Steppers

First, calibrate your gear steppers (filament units). The goal of this calibration is to ensure the filament actually moves as far as expected.

First, detach the PTFE tubing from each of the filament units.

For each filament unit (gate), repeat the following steps:

  1. Manually load filament until it sticks out slightly from the end of the filament unit
  2. Cut the tip of the filament to be flush with the PTFE coupler (side cutters are good for this).

  3. Run the following commands in your Klipper console:

    1
2
    MMU_SELECT GATE=n
MMU_TEST_MOVE MOVE=100

    where n is the gate number you are calibrating (starting at zero).

  4. The filament should move forwards. If it moves backwards, invert your gear stepper. Measure the distance the filament moved out of the extruder. Using side cutters the same as before can be helpful for this. Run the following command in your Klipper console:

    1
    MMU_CALIBRATE_GEAR MEASURED=n

    where n is the measured distance.

  5. Repeat step 3. The filament should move exactly 100mm.

Encoder (if installed)

If you are using an encoder, like a BTT SFS (Smart Filament Sensor), you need to calibrate your encoder.

  1. Load your filament manually to its parking position at the start of the Y-splitter.

  2. Run in your Klipper console:

    1
    MMU_CALIBRATE_ENCODER

Inverting a Gear Stepper

If you notice any of your gear steppers moving filament in the opposite direction as expected, you need to invert the gear stepper. There are two options to do this:

  • Physically flip the stepper cables
  • Invert it in software

To invert a gear stepper in software, open mmu_hardware.cfg and invert the dir_pin for the respective stepper.

Example, if T1 is moving backwards:

mmu_hardware.cfg
1
2
3
[stepper_mmu_gear_1]
...
dir_pin: mmu: PC5
mmu_hardware.cfg
1
2
3
[stepper_mmu_gear_1]
...
dir_pin: !mmu: PC5 # <-- Note the ! in front of mmu

Tip

If the pin already has a ! in front of it, remove it to invert it.

Restart Klipper.

Kits

3MS Kits

Disclaimer

By using the 3MS, you agree to the terms outlined in the full disclaimer and accept full responsibility for its assembly and use. The creators are not liable for any damage, loss, or harm caused by the product.

Full Disclaimer

Full Disclaimer

The 3MS (Modular MultiMaterial System) is provided as-is, with no guarantees or warranties, expressed or implied, regarding its performance, safety, reliability, or suitability for any particular purpose. By purchasing, assembling, or using the 3MS, you acknowledge and agree to the following terms and conditions:

  1. Assumption of Risk
    The use, assembly, and operation of the 3MS are entirely at your own risk. You are solely responsible for ensuring the proper assembly, configuration, and operation of the product. The creators, contributors, and distributors of the 3MS are not liable for any damage, including but not limited to:

    • Damage to your 3D printer, components, or other equipment.
    • Property damage resulting from use or misuse.
    • Personal injury, including but not limited to burns, cuts, or other physical harm.

  2. No Warranties or Guarantees
    The 3MS is sold as a consumer-ready product designed for hobbyist use but is not guaranteed to function without issue in all environments or scenarios. While the instructions provided aim to ensure a successful assembly and operation, they may not account for every possible issue, user error, or unique configuration. No warranties, express or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular purpose, are provided.

  3. Responsibility for Assembly and Use
    Assembly of the 3MS requires basic technical skills, including mechanical assembly and firmware configuration. It is your responsibility to carefully follow the instructions and ensure all components are installed and configured correctly. Failure to do so may result in malfunction, damage, or injury, for which the creators, contributors, and distributors are not responsible.

  4. Compatibility and Modifications
    The 3MS is designed to be compatible with a variety of 3D printers, but compatibility is not guaranteed in all cases. Modifications to the hardware, firmware, or system setup may lead to unintended consequences, and the creators and distributors are not responsible for any resulting issues.

  5. Void of Warranty
    Use of the 3MS may void the warranty of your 3D printer and other components. The creators, contributors, and distributors are not liable for any issues related to warranty claims or repairs resulting from the use of the 3MS.

  6. Indemnification
    By using the 3MS, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless the creators, contributors, and distributors from any claims, damages, or liabilities arising from your use of the product, including but not limited to damages to personal property, injury, or harm caused by incorrect assembly, configuration, or operation.

  7. Limitation of Liability
    Under no circumstances will the creators, contributors, or distributors be liable for any indirect, incidental, special, or consequential damages arising from the use or inability to use the 3MS, including but not limited to loss of profits, data, or business opportunities, even if advised of the possibility of such damages.

By purchasing or using the 3MS, you agree to the terms outlined in this disclaimer and release the creators, contributors, and distributors from any claims or liabilities arising from its use. If you do not agree to these terms, do not proceed with assembly or use of the 3MS.

Tour

For a detailed look at what's included in 3MS kits, check out this tour below:

3MS Kits Tour

Instructions

To assemble and set up your 3MS kit, follow the instructions below.

Instructions

3MS Kits: A First Look

After several months of planning and preparation, I am super excited to release this first look for 3MS kits.

What's inside

3MS kits include:

  • BTT SKR Pico board

    Each board is pre-flashed with the latest Klipper firmware and checked for MCU functionality.

  • Power Supply

    Each kit includes a PSU rated for 24V@2A, ~10in of black and red power cables, and an adapter to a screw terminal.

  • Extruders

    Each kit includes four BMG-style extruders to drive the filament.

  • Stepper Motors

    Each kit includes four NEMA17 stepper motors to drive the extruders.

  • PTFE Tubing

    Each kit includes 10ft of 2mmIDx4mmOD PTFE tubing, five PC4-M10 fittings, and five ECAS04 fittings so you can use any Y-splitter.

  • 3HOME Fasteners Kit

    Each kit includes the necessary fasteners to build a 3HOME, the official modular enclosure for the 3MS.

Includes

  • 1x BTT SKR Pico board
  • 1x PSU
  • 1x PSU to screw terminal adapter
  • 1x Power cables (black and red)
  • 4x NEMA17 stepper motor
  • 4x BMG-style extruder
  • 1x PTFE tubing (10ft)
  • 5x PC4-M10 bowden fittings
  • 5x ECAS04 bowden fittings
  • 1x 3HOME fasteners kit

Instructions

Instructions for 3MS Kits

Thank you for your purchase of a 3MS kit! Each purchase supports me and my further development of the 3MS and my other open-source projects.

Chapters

Follow each of these chapters in order to assemble your 3MS.

If you need help during assembly, don't hesitate to ask!

Discord Shield

1. Printed Parts & Tools

2. Extruders Assembly

3. Electronics Assembly

4. Software Setup

5. First Print

Printed Parts & Tools

Step 1 3HOME Enclosure

  • Print out the 3HOME Official Modular Enclosure for the 3MS.

    Printables

Step 2 Hex Keys

  • Ensure you have the following hex keys:

    🔴 1.5mm (included in kit but recommended to get your own)

    🟢 2mm

    🔵 2.5mm (included in the kit but recommended to get your own)

Step 3 Phillips & Flat-head Screwdrivers

  • Ensure you have:

    • A phillips-head screwdriver (used for the screw terminals for the PSU)

    • A flat-head screwdriver (used for the screw terminals on the SKR Pico)

Step 4 Wire Strippers

  • 🔴 Ensure you have wire strippers capable of stripping 24AWG wire (0.25mm2)

Step 5 Side Cutters

  • Ensure you have side cutters (used for cutting zip ties)

Extruders Assembly

Extruders Assembly

Extruders Assembly

Important

Please note that you must repeat this section four times to assemble all four extruders for your 3MS.

Step 1 Locating the Extruders Internals

  • Begin by locating the extruders internals set in your 3MS kit.

    🔴 Remove one extruder internal set from the bag.

Step 2 Preparing the Stepper Gear

  • Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 Stepper gear

     🟠 Stepper gear screw

     🟢 2.5mm Hex key

    🔵 Using the 2.5mm hex key, screw the stepper gear screw into the stepper gear.

    🟣 Ensure the screw is slightly sticking into the gear.

Step 3

  • Attach the stepper gear to the stepper motor.

    Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 Stepper gear (prepared previously)

     🟠 Stepper motor

    🟢 Slide the stepper gear onto the stepper motor shaft. Note the orientation of the motor. Ensure the stepper gear screw is on the same side as the flat-side of the stepper motor shaft.

    🔵 Slide the edge of the gear to the edge of the stepper motor shaft.

    🟣 Tighten the stepper gear firmly.

Step 4 Filament Unit Parts Preparation

  • Prepare the following for the next steps:

     🔴 Extruder

     🟠 3x M3x30 SHCS (in extruders internals bag)

     🟢 Filament Unit for 3HOME

     🔵 NEMA17 Stepper motor (prepared previously)

     🟣 2.5mm Hex key

Step 5 Assembling the Filament Unit

  • Assemble the filament unit.

    🔴 Place the 3x M3x30 SHCS through the extruder into the filament unit. Note the orientation.

    🟠 Flip the filament unit over and place the NEMA17 stepper motor through the bottom. Note the orientation.

    • Even though the picture doesn't show it, it is recommended to plug the stepper cable before placing the stepper into the 3HOME.

    🟢 Flip the filament unit over again and tighten the three M3 bolts.

Step 6 Installing the Tensioner

  • Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 Tension screw (in extruder internals bag)

     🟠 Tension washer (in extruder internals bag)

     🟢 Tension spring (in extruder internals bag)

    🔵 Assemble the three as shown.

    🟣 Install the tensioner into the extruder through the hole on the side.

Step 7 Final Extruder Assembly

  • Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 PC4-M10 fitting

     🔵 Blue Collet clip

    🟠 Locate the hole on the extruder and screw the PC4-M10 fitting into it.

    🟢 Insert the short length of PTFE into the ECAS fitting on the opposite end of the extruder.

Make sure to repeat this chapter a total of four times.

🎉 You're done with extruders assembly!

WIP

Printed Parts and Tools

Electronics Assembly

Electronics Assembly

Step 1 Removing Supports: Part 1

  • Remove the built-in supports from the SKR Pico case.

    🔴 Prepare either SKR Pico Bottom.stl or SKR Pico Bottom (small).stl (shown)

    🟢 Remove the indicated built-in support.

Step 2 Removing Supports: Part 2

  • Remove the built-in supports from the case.

    🔴 Remove the indicated supports from the case.

Step 3 Installing the Board

  • Install the SKR Pico board into the case.

    Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 2mm Hex key

     🟠 4x mounting bolts (included with the SKR Pico)

     🟢 SKR Pico board

    🔵 Place the SKR Pico board onto the previously prepared case.

    🟣 Using the four mounting bolts and the hex key, fasten the SKR Pico onto the case.

Step 4 Preparing the Power Cables

  • Strip the power cables and prepare for the next steps.

    Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 Power cables

     🟠 Wire strippers

    🟢 Split both ends of the wires as shown.

    🔵 Strip a short length off of all four ends of the wires.

    🟣 Twist the ends of the wires.

Step 5 Connecting the PSU

TODO...

Step 6 Connecting the Power Cables

  • Connect the power cables from the PSU to the SKR Pico.

    Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 Power cables and PSU

     🟠 SKR Pico with case

      Flat-head screwdriver

    🟢 Loosen both power terminals on the SKR.

    🔴 Plug the red wire into the positive terminal on the SKR.

    🔵 Plug the black wire into the negative terminal on the SKR.

    🟣 Firmly tighten both power terminals on the SKR.

Step 7 Preparing the 3HOME

  • Add M3nS to the 3HOME.

    Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 3HOME

     🟢 2x M3nS Square nuts

    🔵 Insert the two square nuts into any joiner of the 3HOME

Step 8 Attaching to the 3HOME

  • Attach the SKR Pico case to the 3HOME.

    Prepare the following for this step:

     🔴 2.5mm Hex key

     🟠 2x M3x30 SHCS

     🟢 SKR Pico case (prepared previously)

    🔵 Fasten the SKR Pico to the 3HOME with the two M3x30 SHCS using the 2.5mm hex key.

Step 9 Wire Management

Begin by stretching out each stepper motor wire away from the 3HOME as shown.

Next, take the rightmost wire (T0) and form it into the shape shown.

Fold it back over itself several times until a short length is remaining. Use a zip tie to secure and cut off the excess from the zip tie.

Push the cable bundle into the SKR case and route the wire as shown with the green line.

Plug the stepper cable into the second-to-left port on the SKR (when viewed upside down as shown)

Repeat the same process for the stepper motor to the left of the previous one. Plug it into the port to the right of the first one.

Repeat the process for the next stepper motor in line, routing the wire as shown with the green line.

Plug the stepper into the port to the right of the previous one.

Repeat the process for the final stepper, routing the wire as shown with the green line.

Plug this stepper into the leftmost plug on the SKR.

🎉 You're done with electronics assembly!

Extruders Assembly

Software Setup

Software Setup

You're so close to being able to use your 3MS. Follow these last three steps and you're ready to print!

Step 1 Install Happy Hare

Follow the instructions here to set up Happy Hare for the 3MS.

Step 2 Configure Happy Hare

Follow the instructions here to configure Happy Hare for the 3MS.

Step 3 Calibrate Happy Hare

Follow the instructions here to calibrate Happy Hare for the 3MS.

🎉

First Print

Guides

Config-Generator

Folge diesem Guide um eine Custom-Config für dein 3MS zu generieren.

Grundlagen-Config

Als erstes musst du eine Klipper-Config für dein Mainboard finden. Der beste Ort um diese zu finden sind die official Klipper sample configurations.

In diesem Beispiel wird ein BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 verwendet. Eine Grundlagen-Config ist hier verfügbar.

Rohdatei

Jetzt hast du die Config, aber sie ist keine Rohdatei, sondern eine volle Website. Um Fortzufahren brauchst du die Rohdatei. Um sie zu erhalten musst du auf den "Raw" Button in Ecke Oben-Rechts klicken.

Jetzt wirst du auf eine Seite mit der Rohdatei weitergeleitet. Kopiere die URL aus der Addresszeile.

Generieren der Config - Web

ODER

Generieren der Config - Shell

Jetzt wo du die URL der Rohdatei hast, musst du das Generatorskript installieren.

Installation

  1. Klone das 3MS repository:

    1
2
    cd ~
git clone https://github.com/3DCoded/3MS

  2. Stelle sicher dass Python 3 installiert ist (nicht Python 2).

  3. Installiere requests

    1
    pip3 install requests

Das Skript ausführen

Starte als erstes das Skript:

1
2
cd ~/3MS
python3 generator.py

Jetzt werden dir verschiedene Optionen angezeigt.

Config URL

Füge die vorhin erhaltene URL ein.

Lokale Datei verwenden

Du kannst auch eine lokale Config-Datei verwenden, indem du den --file Parameter übergibst.

1
python3 generator.py --file

Ausgewählte Stepper

Das Skript wird dir nun alle Stepper Definitionen, die in der Config gefunden wurden, jeweils mit einer Nummer, auflisten. Gebe die gewünschten Stepper, mit Leerzeichen getrennt, ein.

TMC Treiber

Für jeden von dir ausgewählten Stepper wird das Skript dich fragen, welchen TMC Treiber du verwenden möchtest. Für den SKR Mini E3 V3 gibt es nur eine Option: TMC2209.

Keine TMC Treiber?

Wenn du keine TMC-Treiber in deiner Config verwenden willst, übergebe den Parameter --no-tmc:

1
python3 generator.py --no-tmc

MCU Name

Schließlich fragt das Skript dich nach dem Namen der MCU, die dein 3MS steuert. Folge der Namenskonvention, die in der Prompt angegeben ist.

Deine Konfiguration wird nun in ~/3MS/mmu.cfg und ~/3MS/mmu_hardware.cfg verfügbar sein.

3DChameleon zu 3MS Umbau

Folge diesem Guide um ein 3DChameleon zu einem 3MS umzubauen.

Stückliste

Name Preis Menge Link Anmerkungen
BTT MMB $34.99 1 BTT
Duponts $9.99 1 Amazon Diese Leitungen reichen nur um Stepper zu betreiben, nicht für Heizelemente geeignet!
24V PSU $12.99 1 Amazon Dieses Netzteil reicht nur um Stepper zu betreiben, nicht für Heizelemente geeignet!
MK8 Metal Extruder $9.99 2 Amazon Alternativ kannst du auch diesen Dual-drive MK8 basierten Extruder verwenden

The Gesamtkosten dieses Upgrades entsprechen ca $70.

Anleitung

  1. Schraube die 8 Schrauben am 3DChameleon ab um die 2 Nema17 Steppermotoren zu entfernen
  2. Stecke die Nema17 Stepper von 3DChameleon Board ab
  3. Entferne die PTFE Schläcuhe vom 3DChameleon und dem Y-Splitter

Folge als nächstes der Master Instructions mit Ausnahme der Stückliste.

Mitwirken

Beitragen

Wenn du zum 3MS-Projekt beitragen möchtest, befolge die folgenden Anweisungen.

Development Setup

Folge dem Development Setup, um dein System für die Entwicklung mit 3MS einzurichten.

Pull Request

Reiche abschließend eine pull request ein. Ein Entwickler wird sich bald mit dir in Verbindung setzen und dir Feedback geben, bevor deine Pull Request in das Hauptprojekt integriert wird.

Vielen Dank für deinen Beitrag zum 3MS-Projekt!

Development Setup

Folge dieser Anleitung, um dein System für die Entwicklung mit dem 3MS einzurichten.

Veränderungen der Dokumentation

  1. Erstelle eine Fork des 3MS Repositories
  2. Erstelle einen neuen Branch für deine Anfrage (aus dem docs Branch)1. Install Python.
  3. Installiere Pipenv.
  4. Navigiere in deinem Terminal zum Ordner 3MS und führe aus: 
    1
2
    pipenv install
pipenv shell
  5. Entwickle die Änderungen im neuen Branch und benutze den folgenden Befehl, um die Dokumentation lokal auszuführen: 
    1
    mkdocs serve